Alloy Swing Arm

The later GS1100 and Katana ('81 up) came with a neat fabricated alloy swingarm that looked a lot like aftermarket swingarms made during the 1970's. It weighs about 8 pounds less than the steel one (seriously!) and it's a lot stiffer. One would look just right on the Bruiser, giving it a touch more of that "Superbike" vibe.

There's nothing wrong with the stock GS1000 swingarm, and if I was doing a factory restoration I would leave it in place. However, I like to do easy mods when I get the chance, and this is definitely an easy mod. It's also reversible as long as I keep the stock swinger around.

I traded an extra set of Progressive fork springs that I got (long story) to a nice guy named Dennis in Connecticut for the swingarm. With the bike in pieces and lots of parts on order, there wasn't a better time to make the swap.

It's a bolt-on mod, or rather should be a bolt-on mod. My bike didn't quite have enough clearance on the left between the passenger peg bracket and the swinger. No big deal, I just used my trusty Craftsman trolley jack to push the peg brackets a little (like 1/8") further apart. Now they're perfectly even.

The other modification I made was to the original GS1000 chainguard - it's a nice plastic piece in comparison with the GS1100 swingarm's steel guard. The front hole is in a different location but it was a simple change. I drilled a new hole in the proper location and added a stainless bolt from the backside and a locknut on the outside.

I took the opportunity to grease the pivot needle bearings, re-route the brake hose and adjust the chain tension again. I also cleaned the back of the motor and bottom of the battery box since this area is normally obstructed by the swingarm.

I'll give a handling report next time I take the bike out, but it sure looks trick sitting in the garage!

Front Forks

Lots of work happening on the beast while I've got some time off of work for the holidays.

The latest job to be finished was the forks. The chrome tubes were pitted with rust when I got the bike, and the rubber in the seals was old and hard, both consequences of the coastal location of it's slumber. A re-seal was definitely in the cards.

The old forks came apart pretty quick. Despite their pitted tubes and cracked dust seals, they actually held some air pressure from 27 years ago. Amazing. The oil was nasty with condensation and metal particles though.

I tried polishing the rusty fork tubes with 800 grit wet sandpaper, fine steel wool and chrome polish, but the left tube was too far gone. The right tube would work in a pinch - it had only one tiny pit that I filled with a drop of epoxy and sanded flat. I debated using epoxy to fill the numerous pits on the right tube, but I rejected the idea as too half-assed for me. I really like to do things the right way. So, despite the hit it would make to my budget, I sourced a replacement used tube on eBay. I ended up buying an entire fork set that had one good tube.

I bought some OEM fork seals and dust shields too. Not too expensive - less than $40 for the lot. And, since I can't resist improving things when I rebuild them, I also found a set of new Progressive fork springs to match the uprated rear shocks I've installed. I used 15w fork oil to replace the nasty stock stuff (in place of the recommended 10w20 engine oil) and give a little better damping.

The eBay forks come with an aftermarket fork brace (1980s Pro Circuit - I thought they only made dirt stuff?) which should do even more for the front end. The forks also had an air tube crossover kit, which needs a new fitting to work.

While the forks were off I disassembled the steerer tube and steering bearings. The tapered bearings on this bike are definitely over built, and 12,000 miles is nothing for them. New Bel-ray waterproof grease went back in, and I carefully adjusted them to eliminate any slop or unnecessary friction.

After thoroughly cleaning all the internal parts, I assembled the suspension on the bike and added fork oil to the stock level - 140mm from the top. I pumped it a few times and all was good. I then installed the front wheel and brake calipers and bled the brakes. A nice, hard lever was the result.

With it's improved suspension, new sticky tires, braided brake lines and modern brake pad compounds the GS1000 should handle and stop about as well as possible for a 30 year old beast of a bike. I might not be able to hang on the tail of the guys with modern 600s, but I'll sure be able to keep them guessing.

All that's left is cosmetics, and of course starting the engine for the first time in 27 years. I can't wait to get it back on the road!

Rear wheel; shocks

The rear shocks on my GS were rusty and ugly, and they probably weren't very good even when they were new. So instead of wasting my time cleaning up 30-year-old springs, I figured I'd just buy some inexpensive performance shocks.

The MDI units found on ebay are well-known as decent shocks, especially for the money. They tend to be sprung a little hard but that shouldn't be a problem for this 500-pound beast of a bike.

On the GS Resources I found some second-hand but unused shocks for $55 shipped, about $20 off the usual shipped price on ebay. The shiny chrome springs will definitely spruce up the rear of the bike.

The rear end of the bike is now finished - the swingarm pivot bearings and rear wheel bearings were tight as a drum and didn't require any service. The rear wheel is squeaky clean and polished (after a good day's work with steel wool and alloy wheel cleaner) and is sporting a brand new Bridgestone Spitfire tire in the stock size. The swingarm itself is straight and now clean and the chain looks as if it has minimal wear (it's definitely been replaced at some point). the brakes are rebuilt and I installed some new shocks.